Previous post: From the Pantheon to Saint Teresa, Part II
The first post in this series: From the Pantheon to Saint Teresa, Part I
Chiefly, the concluding part of this walk means a meander back the same way with a few dives into unfamiliar streets to look at street shrines and interesting building angles or to avoid sudden crowds.
Exiting Santa Maria della Vittoria, and crossing the Largo, you’ll walk in front of Chiesa Santa Susanna alle Terme di Dioclezia (Church of St. Susanna at the Diocletian Baths, which are actually 1/3 mile away down Via Torino). Carlo Maderno, the architect partially responsible for Santa Maria della Vittoria and St. Peter’s Basilica, created the church’s facade. Legend holds that the structure is built atop the saint’s home, where she was martyred after rejecting a pagan suitor (who also happened to be related to Emperor Diocletian).
Across the street—we’re still on Via Venti Settembre—see the 16th century Bernardo alle Terme—a small, circular, lemony-yellow affair. It was built from the remains of a tower in the walls around Diocletian’s Baths.
Continue on Via Venti Settembre about a quarter of a mile. You’ll turn the corner at the elegant Le Quattro Fontane—an intersection of four 16th century fountains. Two represent rivers (Aniene and Tiber), and two represent goddesses (Diana and Juno). Turning right, amble down Via delle Quattro Fontane for a bit.
When you meet the Via deglie Avigninonesi (just off Via del Tritone), look for the lovely Madonelle who watches from just above the street sign. You can cross the street and walk down Via deglie Avingnonesi to the Trevi, or you can get back onto Via del Tritone. It’s just about 1/3 mile back to the Trevi.
When you’re in the Trevi area, you can wander a bit through the warren of streets and allies—leather shops, gelaterias, sandwich shops, the ever-present souvenir stalls, and more. Be sure to let your eyes roam. You don’t want to miss incidental notices and decorations such as this fellow just above a door on Via della Panetteria.
The stone gate at the end of the Via della Panetteria leads to the Palazzo del Quirinale, one of the Italian president’s official residences (go here for a virtual tour ). Apparently Napoleon claimed this as one of his imperial palaces, but he never got a chance to move in.
Back at the Trevi, chances are the area’s filling up. There may not be room enough for you to get through and toss a coin in the fountain, but you can still admire things people are passing over as they focus on the fountain; foe example:
One of the loveliest madonnelles in Rome, Madonna del’Archetto, is directly across from Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio a Trevi (Saints Vincent and Anastasius at Trevi, which most of the people have their backs to. Behind this fabuoulous Baroque façade, you’ll find 22 embalmed hearts—they’re from pontiffs how lived between the 17th -19th centuries. The name Manzarius, as well as the coat of arms and Cardinal’s hat, is prominent as this Cardinal Mazarin directed the church’s reconstruction.
Make your way back to Via del Corso and cross over. you’re very close to the Pantheon, so take you time to meander through piazzas and alleys. Look for the architectural and cultural juxtapositions; for example, the peak of Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola peeking over these dwellings.
This 16th century fountain, originally in Via De Pastini , was moved to Vicolo della Spada d’Orlando 1869. It’s still in use–I saw more than one person refill a water bottle from it.
The Chiesa Santa Chiara, in Piazza di Santa Chiara, about a block away from the Pantheon. The original building was erected over the Baths of Agrippa. The current building is from the 19th century.
So, there it is. About three miles, just over three hours (what with all the sightseeing). I arrived back at our lodging, a few blocks from the Pantheon, to see if my friends were up and about. Indeed, they were. And they were ready to heard for the forum (an adventure I covered in a series of posts beginning with From the Pantheon to the Capitoline)
Until I sorted through my photos, I’d forgotten I went on both of these walks on the same day. I’m kind of astonished at that, to be honest.
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